December 3, 2019
Trade Soho -Where hospitality professionals can unwind with peers outside working hours
Originally an exclusive members-only club, Trade has now opened its doors to members of the public on a limited basis, due to the arrival of the Anglo restaurant dining experience.
This new and exciting offer comes courtesy of Trade owners Xavier Rousset and Gearoid Devaney in collaboration with Mark Jarvis, esteemed chef-patron of Anglo, that has built a stunning reputation as a ‘go-to’ eaterie with its thoughtful menu.
The partnership has entrusted the culinary reins to Anthony Raffo, who has spent 16 years building his career from grassroots level to executive chef in locations such as Stocks Hotel, Pied a Terre and the celebrated Auberge du Lac at Brocket Hall. Anthony bases his menus on fresh produce, quite often foraged by his own fair hand to source wild edibles.
Not only can you now eat as a non-member (bookings essential), but you can enjoy access to the Coravin Cellar, a wine lovers delight where both connoisseurs and newbies to wine can sample exciting discoveries from Xavier and Gearoid, highly experienced sommeliers with astonishing credentials.
Dining in these luxury surroundings is a real treat. You can sink into the plush velvet or leather sofas, very much retro style of the ’60s but with more than a touch of sophistication and ‘oodles’ of character with beautiful marble-topped tables and subtle lighting. There is definitely a certain cosiness and intimacy to these lovely surroundings. The only difficult thing in this establishment is choosing what to eat from the range of tasting plates, a la carte or just going with the flow and picking the 5-course tasting menu. From the cocktails to the delicious food, expect some twists along the way!
You can expect tried and tested British food (hence the name ‘Anglo’) as chef Anthony is a believer in promoting our own homegrown produce at its best. But it’s not textbook – all dishes are transported from old classics into innovative modern dishes that still reflect traditional food. Whoever knew that ‘cheese on toast’ could taste so good! Sounds basic? Wait until you try it!
Tasting plates as we all know are a great way to get the ‘feel’ of any dining experience, and the 5-course tasting menu is available to non-members. Bookings must be made for the limited amount of tables available. Monday to Friday you can book between 11 am and 3 am the next day (perfect for night owls) but on Saturdays, you can dine between 5 pm and 3 am, on the button if you have spent the day shopping, or want pre or post-theatre sustenance.
If you are desirous of trying something new, the tasting menu is for you. It does change due to Mark’s enthusiasm for provenance and seasonal availability, so expect the best on offer.
Our lucky day consisted of Fermented Cauliflower with Chive oil, a favourite of the chef Anthony, who claims, self-confessed, that he could drink a pint of the sauce! We loved this dish and could understand totally where he was coming from! We also had Buckwheat Crackers with Sauerkraut, again delicious with the cracker being so crisp against the slightly acidic sauerkraut.
The ‘cheese toast’ was a triumph – malt loaf with luxuriously silky melted cheese with just enough hint of Guinness, parmesan and chutney to die for. We could have eaten this for breakfast, lunch, dinner and supper, it was so divine.
A Chocolate Ganache with Buttermilk Snow and Cacao Nibs was the finale of our tasting menu, which again was smooth and perfectly made. A triumph at the end of such an eclectic range of flavours.
A: 23 Frith Street, London W1D 4RR
T: 0207 434 1724
Written by Rafa Zurita for Luxuria Lifestyle International and London