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The sun peeks over the horizon, turning the sky from grey to a pale pink. We stand, shivering slightly, in the early morning air. Before us, on the floodplain, are thousands of beautiful, endemic, Black Lechwe, barely visible through the thick morning mist. We’re in the Bangweulu wetlands, in north eastern Zambia. Bangweulu means “where the water meets the sky”, which is a perfect description of this extraordinary community-owned protected wetland in north-eastern Zambia.