It seems a long time ago that Prosecco became the new darling of the budget fizz drinker. People were attracted to the fruity simplicity, rock-bottom prices, and – whether they were aware of it or not – that it tended to be remarkably sweet. The true bargain fizz on the block is coming back with a vengeance.

Cava, first made in 1872 by Josep Raventós at Codorníu, after a stint in the cellars at Taittinger in Champagne, offers real-world quality, complexity and dry, savoury food-friendliness where Prosecco can’t.

Firstly, the Méthode Traditionnelle, by which Cava is made, is almost identical to the Méthode Champenoise. It provides many layers of savoury fruit, and biscuity spice in grander, older examples, making it perfect for Valentine’s Day. Why? A plate of cured ham, some olives, slices of hard cheese – whether Manchego or Comté – will elevate the delicate flavours and bring out all the sweet fruit in a premium Cava.

Try the golden bubbles of Anna de Codorníu Brut Cava, a modern take on the traditional blend, largely composed of premium Catalan Chardonnay fruit. Delicious with runny cheeses in particular. This, Spain’s most-loved and No. 1 best-selling fizz, is £11.99 at Waitrose.

Waitrose £11.99

Or perhaps you’d like to share a more conventional pink sparkling wine with your Valentine. Then try the Codorníu Rosado Brut, made entirely from Monastrell – also known as Mourvèdre in France – known for its rich red fruit flavours and clovey spice. Surely this is a steal for £9.49 also at Waitrose this spring.

Waitrose £9.49