Join me for a dhow adventure, coral garden discovery and Swahili coastal flavours…

My senses were on overdrive. Between the rhythmic thrum of the dhow and the blinding glare of the turquoise waters, I felt the ocean’s magnetic pull. Mask pressed to my face, I plunged in.

Splash…. the sun-dappled surface broke, and my excitement gave way to awe as a shimmering kaleidoscope of fish parted around me like a curtain. The Indian Ocean swallowed me in a soft, embracing warmth. As the surface bubbles vanished, I became aware of the silence, broken only by the rhythmic sound of my own breathing.

Whether a diver or a snorkeler, the ocean has something for everyone. One looks down through the shimmering turquoise water, floating above the reef, the other slips beneath the surface in a single breath and looks up through the weightless blue; both are equally captivated by the pristine coral reefs bursting with life and colour.

The perfect day unfolded with a seafood lunch waiting for us later in the day on a tranquil island with swaying palms.

Beyond the Shore: A Deep Dive into Kenya’s Marine Paradise

On Kenya’s sun-kissed coast, near Shimoni and close to the Tanzanian border, the 39 sq. km Kisite-Mpunguti Marine Park is home to 250 fish species, 70 resident dolphins, 56 types of corals, ten species of mangroves and dozens of sea turtles, whales, seabirds, seasonal whale sharks and humpback whales. The Park was established to protect the scenic islands and special habitats of a wide range of endemic marine animals and breeding migratory birds.

To address coral bleaching, Kenya’s REEFolution Foundation restores reefs by collecting wild coral fragments for nurseries. They use scientific research and local REEF Ranger programmes to rehabilitate damaged reefs with artificial structures.

Nestled in this pristine marine environment, Pilli Pipa Dhow Safari stands out as a premier boat tour operator, giving guests exclusive access to uncrowded coral reefs. This highly sought-after experience is a memorable, once-in-a-lifetime activity where visitors can scuba dive and snorkel in a vibrant ecosystem teeming with marine life, guided by experienced professionals. The full-day adventure features two dedicated stops for snorkelling and diving within the protected marine park. To complete the experience, guests enjoy a private Swahili seafood lunch on the picturesque Wasini Island.

From Shore to Sea

On reaching Shimoni, a tranquil fishing village, we were greeted by the invigorating scent of the sea. With anticipation, I strolled along the time-worn jetty to board a shuttle boat bound for Pilli Pipa’s traditional wooden Arab dhows. The dhows, anchored nearby, swayed gently as their weathered timbers and taut ropes evoked the rich maritime history of the Indian Ocean.

I hauled myself up the ladder’s creaking rungs, gripping the frayed rope handles. Hopping onto the dhow, the gentle, resonant creak of the aged wooden hull greeted me; a blend of timbers settling beneath my weight and the sea’s soft sigh against the planks. The sound was not jarring; it was rhythmic, almost musical, and seemed to welcome me to an adventure that promised both history and excitement.

Gliding through the water, we settled in with freshly brewed tea, coffee, and traditional East African mandazis. The steady creak matched the rhythm of the waves, while the skilled crew worked seamlessly together. For an hour, we cruised the turquoise sea, spotting dolphins nearby. We stopped at the Inner Kisite coral reef, known for its sloping wall and hard corals -staghorn and brain corals, the architects, providing critical habitat for marine life.

Into the Blue

Descending into the vibrant underwater world, weighted by gear, was the highlight of the day for the scuba divers.

The reef was alive with activity: majestic groupers patrolled the deeper sections, while shoals of parrotfish and angelfish moved in synchronised patterns, creating a dynamic display of colour. Among the coral crevices, a kaleidoscope of smaller reef fish darted in and out, their movements quick and mesmerising. The divers spotted a curious octopus skilfully camouflaging itself against the rocks and watched as moray eels emerged from their hiding places and well-camouflaged sand eels peeked out of their sandy hideaways.

The seabed revealed additional wonders, such as delicate feather duster worms extending their plumes to filter the water, and sea cucumbers slowly traversing the ocean floor.

As a snorkeller, I too was mesmerised by the coral formations teeming with life, from tiny shrimp cleaning the scales of passing fish to vibrant sponges and soft corals swaying with the current. A vibrant wall of yellow damselfish scattered as clownfish peeked from their anemone homes and starfish sprawled across the sandy ocean floor.

Riding the Waves

Rough tides churned up sand and sediment, clouding the turquoise waters and making snorkelling a challenge for some. Murky water obscured some vibrant corals, their bright hues dulled by the swirling sediment and the seabed textures were dulled.

However, all equipment, from life jackets to dive gear, was well maintained and individually fitted to ensure comfort and safety. The extensive selection of masks and fins enhanced the snorkelling and diving experience for everyone, even when the waters were rough. Since 1989, Pilli Pipa has operated with a dedicated team enthusiastic about travel, sailing, quality cuisine, and delivering memorable experiences. Both owners are professional marine biologists and certified dive instructors, ensuring a high standard of expertise and service.

Once back onboard and headed for Wasini Island, the dhow hammered through a sudden chop. The hull groaned like an old sea dog waking from a nap. White spray lashed the deck as the wind whistled – a clear sign the ocean was not ready to be tamed that day. Yet the crew’s seasoned expertise shone through as the skipper steered us steadily through the swells.

Time to Celebrate

This adventure was a special birthday celebration that gathered family and friends worldwide. For most of us, this was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, heightening the anticipation and excitement.

There was a unique thrill that comes with stepping out of the ordinary. It’s a spark you feel when you try something new – something you’ve never done before. The Pilli Pipa Dhow Safari captured that feeling perfectly. It not only introduced us to a breathtaking new destination but also broadened our horizons with fresh experiences and perspectives.

The Soul of Coastal Cooking: Seafood, Coconut and Cardamom

On the island, rustic driftwood tables covered in colourful kanga cloth awaited us, ready for a feast. Women in bright kitenge dresses welcomed us with melodic “Karibuni” guiding us to our seats, and the island air was filled with the smells of coconut, spices and salty sea air. Ocean sounds mingled with laughter and clinking glasses created an unforgettable island vibe.

Each dish was artfully presented, turning the meal into a vibrant showcase of Swahili warmth and coastal Kenyan flavours.

The culinary journey began with ….

a fragrant coconut vegetable soup, infused with the subtle warmth of cardamon and the richness of fresh coconut milk. Succulent crab claws came next, cracked open at the table, releasing a rush of briny aroma. The meat was plump, sweet, and tender, with a pure ocean flavour, each bite offering a satisfying snap and delicate richness. Golden cassava bites added a nutty crunch, while seafood skewers, dipped in tangy tamarind sauce, added a lively, citrus-like sharpness that danced on the palate. The centrepiece was a fragrant mound of Swahili rice, delicately spiced with cardamom, cloves, and a hint of cinnamon and this was flanked by crispy fried seaweed and a vibrant local cabbage dish.

As we dined, the island’s energy wrapped us in warmth: the distant call of seabirds, the laughter of loved ones and the waves’ gentle pulse. Chilled white wine and crisp beers refreshed us, their coolness a perfect counterpoint to the tropical warmth. The grand finale – a towering lemon-flavoured birthday cake – was presented with joyful fanfare, its zesty sweetness the perfect ending to an unforgettable island feast.

Reflections

Kenya’s magnificent coastline has abundant luxury resorts and boutique hotels, providing diverse options for relaxation and adventure. A highlight is the dhow cruise; sail the Indian Ocean, relax under palm trees and enjoy the sunshine. The Pilli Pipa dhow cruise offers a memorable experience.

As the turquoise waters murmured their secrets of the sea and the tides awakened mysteries beneath, I found myself immersed in an ocean state of mind – a place where tranquillity and wonder intertwine. This was not just a safari, it was an immersion into the heart of the Indian Ocean, where every splash, every shadow, and every shimmer beneath the waves promised a new story. The journey unfolded like a graceful dance with sighs in the wind and waves that invited dreams as boundless as the horizon.

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Written by Diane McLeish for Luxuria Lifestyle International