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Luxuria’s Sam Mead enjoys Lunch at 1 Lombard Street

A meal at 1 Lombard Street starts well before the first bite. Positioned on the corner of Lombard Street, just moments from Bank station, it sits in one of those pockets of London where the architecture, the atmosphere and the pace of life immediately set a tone. There is a sense of wealth, history and quiet importance to this part of the City; the kind of place where sharp tailoring, old institutions and serious business still seem entirely at home. Few restaurants feel so naturally aligned with their surroundings.

Opened in 1998 and housed within a Grade II listed former banking hall in the heart of the Square Mile, 1 Lombard Street is a restaurant whose setting shapes the entire experience.

Inside, the room is every bit as impressive as you might hope. The fabulous glass cupola dome gives the restaurant a real sense of grandeur, while the circular bar area beneath acts as a wonderful centrepiece. It is elegant, but not intimidating; grand, but still warm. I was especially taken by the contrast between the crisp white tables and bar top and the rich green of the chairs and bar stools. It felt like a fitting nod to the building’s banking history, with the green bringing to mind money, wealth and prosperity. At lunchtime, there was a real buzz, with plenty of business people gathered over meetings and long lunches, which felt entirely right for its location. Yet with that dome overhead and the sheer regality of the room, I could just as easily imagine it in the evening as the setting for a truly special celebration meal.

The drinks menu made an immediate impression. I loved that a selection of aperitifs appears right at the top, setting the tone for a meal that feels considered from the outset. I tried the Twinkle Hill, made with vodka and elderflower cordial, topped with Lombard Street Champagne and finished with lemon twist and mint. It was a brilliant start to lunch: light, refreshing and celebratory, with just enough elegance to make the occasion feel elevated.

Equally memorable was the Amaretti Sour mocktail, featuring Lyre’s Amaretti, orgeat, lemon juice and Ms Better’s Bitters Foamer. This was a real highlight. It tasted like sour Parma Violets in the best possible way, with that perfect balance of sweet and sharp that kept calling me back for more sips. It felt like something naughty, but it wasn’t, and I loved that contradiction. A sophisticated drink, but also playful and moreish.

The menu manages to feel both refined and reassuringly familiar. There is a definite sense of occasion in some of the more elevated dishes — the Devon crab and caviar with crème fraîche, for example — but also plenty for those who simply want a hearty, classic British meal — think fish and chips, pie or steak. The inclusion of regularly changing specials also adds to that variety, with dishes such as soup, pie and fish shifting depending on seasonality and availability.

A wide range of starters is available, but also a nice selection of snacks, which offers a lighter alternative if you don’t want to commit to a full first course. That feels particularly sensible here, given the generous portion sizes of the mains. On the recommendation of our waiter, I opted for the ham hock, pea and mint soup, which is not ordinarily something I would choose. I am so glad I did. The ham, sitting in the middle of the bowl on arrival, was delicious: salty, rich and clearly good quality, adding another layer of flavour to the dish. I had been slightly concerned that the mint might be overpowering, as it is not a flavour I usually lean towards in savoury dishes, but it was beautifully judged. Instead, what came through was the lovely creamy flavour of the peas, which worked perfectly against the saltiness of the ham hock. Served with a warm, fresh cheese scone that was soft, comforting and ideal for dipping, it was a wonderfully satisfying start.

Among the mains, the Suffolk red pork chop with Bermondsey mushrooms and mustard gravy stood out to me. The pork chop was one of the biggest and best I have ever had. Pork can so easily be dry, but this was beautifully succulent and full of flavour. The Bermondsey mushrooms deserve special mention, too. I am not typically someone who would opt for mushrooms, but these were something else entirely: large, almost crisp in texture, and so far removed from the sliminess that can often put people off. To me, the mark of a great restaurant is being able to take something you would not normally choose and turn it into something delicious, something that makes complete sense on the plate. That was exactly the case here. A side of creamy mashed potato brought everything together perfectly.

Dessert was equally polished. Between us, we had the vanilla crème brûlée and the apple tart with Chantilly cream, both of which felt like perfect endings to a substantial lunch. I wanted something that was not too heavy, which the apple tart delivered beautifully. Fine slices of apple lay neatly over a tart base, with a perfect oval scoop of Chantilly cream on top. The crème brûlée had that lovely crack on the surface without being overdone, and a smooth, creamy layer beneath. Both desserts felt elegant, restrained and the perfect end to a delicious meal.

Part of 1 Lombard Street’s appeal is that it offers more than one kind of dining experience. Their Friday Steak Night adds a more relaxed end-of-week energy, with butcher’s cut steak, sauces and bottomless fries at the centre of the offer, alongside Friday cocktails that sound ideal for easing into the weekend.  Their Sunday roasts are another strong draw, which feels entirely in keeping with both the grandeur of the room and the restaurant’s classic City identity, with British roasts made from quality British ingredients. It is easy to see how 1 Lombard Street can be many things at once: a polished lunch spot, an after-work Friday destination, and somewhere to gather for a proper Sunday meal in the heart of London.

1 Lombard Street succeeds not simply because the food is excellent, though it is, and not simply because of its location, though few addresses feel more fitting. It succeeds because it understands its own identity. This is a restaurant that belongs to its setting: a grand former banking hall in one of London’s most historic and recognisable business districts, still carrying the energy of the City while offering style, character and occasion in equal measure. For business lunches, it feels perfectly judged. For evening celebrations, I can imagine it being quietly spectacular. And in a part of London so often defined by movement and momentum, 1 Lombard Street offers something rather rare: a chance to pause beneath that remarkable dome and take in the grandeur of the setting.

W: 1 Lombard Street
T: +44 (0) 20 7929 6611
E: Reservations

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Written by Luxuria Lifestyle’s Sam Mead

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