I love to travel. The greatest journeys, however, are by train.

Rail journeys are wonderful and all are in some way exceptional—the cross-section of life they carry, the scenery they pass through, or the distances they travel.

In an age when the romance seems to have been leached out of travel and the demand for “slow travel” grows, train journeys are bringing travellers to less-trodden places, often in grand style.

The demand is not new, but these kinds of journeys are increasingly appearing on travellers’ wish lists. The trend for rail travel is to slow down, see more, and enjoy the journey itself. It is not so much about reliving the past, but finding novel ways to be present. This certainly includes iconic journeys such as South Africa’s Rovos Rail—a privately owned, family-run business ranked as one of the world’s most luxurious train journeys.

Rovos Rail has a style of its own, with train tours that blend earthy African safari with traditional luxury. The journey allowed me to relive the romance of a bygone Africa on a nostalgic 3-night, 1,400km expedition from Pretoria, South Africa, to one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World—the famous Victoria Falls on the mighty Zambezi River in Zimbabwe.

Journey Start

This adventure begins at the gracious, historical red brick station built in 1948 in Pretoria, South Africa. The property is also home to an engrossing railway museum packed with rail memorabilia. A visit to the museum and a tour of the railway sheds gives passengers a glimpse of the behind-the-scenes workings of the company and sets the mood for the journey ahead.

The train, being more than twenty-six carriages, is pulled by one and sometimes two diesel engines. It used to be pulled by steam, but replenishing the engine with water along the way became logistically impossible and the company had to switch to diesel.

With great excitement and the efficient settling of travellers into their private sleeping suites, the train winds its way northwards, crossing the Tropic of Capricorn en route to the Zimbabwean border.

Elegant Carriages

The use of traditional furnishings, fine wood panelling, and period décor throughout transports guests immediately back to a time of relaxed, elegant rail travel of yesteryear. The wood-panelled sleeping coaches offer guests a choice of spacious air-conditioned twin or double-bedded Royal, Deluxe, or Pullman suites—all with every modern convenience alongside period Edwardian features. Each coach has been meticulously restored and has its own personal history; some date back as early as 1911.

The first four hours after leaving Pretoria, the train ambled along at a slow speed, stopping regularly. I was surprised how slowly the train travelled—rarely more than 80km an hour and mostly around 50kph. The border formalities at Beitbridge, Zimbabwe were efficiently and effortlessly handled by the train manager and staff, and we did not even have to leave the comfort of the train.

What Makes a Train Journey Exceptional?

Rovos Rail has wonderful, attentive staff and provides a genuine 1920s train journey experience. Food is an important part of the Rovos experience, and the two dining cars are both beautiful. The polished wood, quality light fittings, and carpets all provide a grand ambience of luxurious travel from a bygone age. The dining coaches have two and four-seater booths, and the interior designer envisaged a train packed with sophisticates in dining suites and cocktail dresses—hence the 1920s vibe.

Dinner is served by staff in formal black-tie suits and cocktail dresses, making for an elegant and sophisticated evening. For guests, formal dress for dinner is encouraged, but during the day, relaxed safari or casual attire is the norm.

The meals are exceptional with attentive service—lunch and dinner are refined four-course affairs with each course paired with fine South African wines. Breakfast is a more relaxed occasion where guests can choose from a buffet or order traditional hot food.

The train is all-inclusive, including the mini bar in the suites. As my husband and I were celebrating an anniversary, sparkling wine and a small gift surprised us in our room and again at the dinner table—a splendid example of their attention to detail and exceptional customer service.

Falling asleep on a train is a category of its own. The carriages are built to the exact standards of a 1920s train, so there are no modern suspensions or sound-deadening systems, giving Rovos Rail travellers a genuinely authentic experience.

Game Park Stopover

On day three we travelled along one of the world’s longest stretches of straight railway line—114km—before traversing Hwange National Park. With about 100,000 elephants, Zimbabwe has the world’s second-largest elephant population after Botswana. More than half of these elephants roam freely within and outside the vast, sprawling, and unfenced Hwange National Park.

Before stopping for a game drive, wild animals can occasionally be spotted from the train. A private game lodge called The Hide had numerous game vehicles waiting to take us on an exhilarating one-hour game drive. Their knowledgeable game rangers eagerly answered all questions and shared fascinating insights—encouraging visitors not only to look out for the Big Five but to enjoy the trees, grasses, and smaller creatures of the park. The experience ended with sundowners set up with wine, beers, soft drinks, and delicious hot and cold snacks, all enjoyed around a crackling campfire. As darkness set in, we returned to the train and were greeted by a line of welcoming staff offering cold flannels and a glass of sparkling wine or fruit juice before boarding.

Time to Unwind

The train has an observation car, which is a prime photography spot situated outside the air-conditioned bar and lounge area. This space also allows visitors to enjoy the sights and sounds of Africa. Watching the rural countryside from either inside or outside, the world blurs into a watercolour of greens and browns, punctuated by the occasional splash of vibrant wildflowers.

Rail journeys take you to the heart of local experience, while also being safe, environmentally friendly, and scenic. As train journeys follow a set route, they spring no surprises, allowing one’s mind to wander and giving time for reflection. When travel distances are long, a train journey allows time and opportunity to strike up conversations with strangers. A long, slow journey is an interruption of reality that creates an atmosphere impossible to experience with any other type of travel.

The journey ended in the town of Victoria Falls in the northern part of Zimbabwe, bordering Livingstone in Zambia. African dancers greeted us at the quaint historic railway station and all luggage was loaded and taken to the Victoria Falls Hotel, where some guests stayed and others ventured on to the numerous wonderful lodges in or around the area.

What better way to see the world than by train? The Rovos Rail journey is a wonderfully joyous occasion from start to finish—from the bustling rural towns to the serene African countryside. The journey is filled with moments of excitement, discovery, luxury, and introspection.

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Written by Diane McLeish